Was wondering the specific year of the 235 and if the radiator was mounted in the original stock position on the engine bay side of the core support or if it was rigged up inside the core support? If you've done steps #1 and #2, the block and engine are topped off, the thermostat is fully open at 180, the gauge is reading correctly, the new bottom hose is not sucking closed at speed, the timing is in the ballpark, you might start thinking about pump overspeed.

On newer 235's that are used to replace the older engines the water pumps mount differently in the engine block. A "short" waterpump is offered that is supposed to give you additional fan clearance with the radiator mounted in it's original stock position on the core support. I went with a "short" pump which cured one of the clearance issue problems but left me limited on the fan choices. To get proper centering of the fan on the radiator; essentially raising it up until it was about 1/2" under the thermostat housing on the head, I used an "adaptor" plate which cured the low fan position, allowed me to use an early (41-53) waterpump with the correct diameter pulley and gave me adequate clearance to run a 6 blade fan and still clear my harmonic balancer, alternator and a/c compressor pulley. But you're already running a six blade and didn't mention any clearance problems. With your truck moving at a speed above idle with a clean full radiator you normally wouldn't have any air flow problems even with the a/c condensor out in front.

Was wondering if it was overheating at idle as well as at speed and if you are feeling air being drawn in through the radiator to the engine compartment? A little more info please.

Dave


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