You should be able to buy a zerk fitting for next to nothing and try it out, the threads should all be standard, so as long as your threads are clean it should go in. If not you can always seal yours back up with silicone or something.
My experience with modern tie rod ends isn't good. I bought a pair from Classic Parts of America and the shaft portion was tapered. The original ball studs are not tapered and neither are the bores in the steering arms. I called the vender to check if I had the right parts and if this was what was intended and they said "yes".
I am running these and so far so good. I did cram some shim stock in the steering arms to help fill the gaps and tightened things down good and marked the nuts.
I was looking at the replacements on CPP's website and theirs look a little straighter. You should call and ask them, before buying.
Do you have a Service Manual? It outlines how to reassemble the stock tie rod and has good pictures. You should be able to do it as well as a "pro" I prefer to do as much as I can myself and know its done per the book.
To tell if your tie rods are bad, just jack up the front axle/wheel and see how much slop there is in the joint. I drove probably 1,000 miles on a worn one that I never checked. It would go vertically almost 1/2".
Removing the ball studs will be easier with the steering arms off. First grind off the peening until you see a circular outline. Then drill out the center to 5/16 and about a 1/2" deep. Then get a 3lb hammer and pin punch. I never tried heat or PB blaster, but they should help too.
