I finally got a chance to cut the push rod shorter. I had to also cut the threaded bolt cause the threads inside the push rod did not go deep enough. The good news is it's in, I still have to bench bleed the master cylinder, install it, adjust the brake lines and replace the wheel cylinders. Hopefully a bit easier from here on out. There, now I went and jinxed it.
Points of interest
I called back to CPP and was told they have different length push rods for different model trucks, all using the same booster and master cylinder. They offered to find one the length I needed and ship it to me at no cost. I fiqured cutting the one I have was easier, less wasteful.
While I purchased this through Classic Parts of America this item was dropped shipped from CPP. Apparently they only ship with the proportioning valve attached. I tried to sell it back to them, no go.
The hole they drilled and tapped on one end of the push rod was not centered. This seemed like a mistake to me, I could see no reason for it.
I had to modify the bracket that angled over to the frame from the front of the booster, it wouldn't line up so I heat it up and bent it a little.
They supplied a spacer, about a half inch long to be placed on the bolt between the lower brake pedal assembly and the ball (heim) joint on the end of the push rod. I added a few washers to it so the push rod was in a straight line out of the booster. Again, I'm not sure this was necessary but it made sense as I lay on my back looking up at all this stuff.
I may never figure out why this product didn't fit right into my truck like it was supposed to but as I go through other restorations It may be come clear. Martin