I think our flyboy from Alberta has the right idea, might be difficult to find a suitable puller heavy enough to press the king pin out if it is really stuck bad. When I changed mine they tapped out with a brass punch, they were nice and snug but not at all frozen. In my opinion you should not use anything harder than brass to remove a steel pin of any sort. If you use any steel or hardened steel drift you will most likely start to mushroom the king pin and then it just gets tighter and tighter being similar to what happens when you upset a rivet.
I'm fortunate to have access to a machine shop so I have duplicated most of the Special Tooling pictured on the pages of the Shop Manual for working on the various components of my 1950, 3604. The latest go round are the tools for working on the rear axle, i.e., hub bearing and seal removers and drivers and six point adjusting nut spanner. I also made the properly sized seal, bearing race drivers for the front wheels, and mast jacket bushing remover and driver. Torque tube seals and bushing were another set.
If I had a king pin that were frozen to the point that a brass drift would not budge it, I would machine a puller fashioned after a pitman arm puller that would capture the eye with a large, probably 3/4" thread to press the pin out. If that didn't work I'm sure that some sort of a saddle could be rigged with a 20-ton bottle jack from HF a couple of plates and some threaded rod.
Of course I've been called a bullhead by more than one person close to me and always want to do it myself. Then again, not everyone has a machine shop at their disposal, in that case I'm with Ron, pull the axel and take it to someone with a press.
I concur TC, never any taper.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL
