Originally Posted by Jon G
You can plug it where the line connects to the filter, but I would just remove the line from the block (oil may dribble out of the hose) and then I'd take a common brass pipe type plug and use that to plug where the line connects to the block. That's all you need to do. If what I think is happening, your oil pressure gauge should start registering the moment your engine starts. Then, remove the plug, replace the line, get a new oil filter and that should take care of it.

But while I'm typing and thinking...you did put the spring and washer on top of the oil filter, yes? That spring pushes the oil filter downward and makes it seal against the cone-shaped part of the oil filter canister. Then, oil flows into the canister on the side, flows around the filter, makes its way in through holes in the side of the filter, is filtered (sort of...not as well as it once was I'm told) and then it makes it through the filter and flows back through the center tube through a 1/16" hole. I'll attach an image so you can see it. Hopefully you can blow it up if you need to see it better. The spring is very important. Without it, there is no seal and I think (maybe tomorrow I can get up in the attic and make sure) oil could just leak back into your engine when it wasn't running.

Hey there, Jon,

Yes sir, the canister cap does have the spring and it's intact. I went ahead and ordered a pressur gauge like Jerry suggested (should be here Friday, then I will go to the hardware store and get tht 1/8" coupler and, I will removed the supply line at the canister, istall the gauge and see what the oil pressure looks like.

Kevin


1953 3100 with 1957 235, T5 and 12 bolt 373 rear