I use the uninsulated butt splices and terminals with heat shrink over that. I like the way the uninsulated crimps work better than the insulated ones. The uninsulated connectors drive a dull spike into the connector for a better connection (first photo shows the crimper). Insulated connectors just crimp down on the wire like a vice and if you don’t apply enough force on the crimp, they will pull out fairly easily. Like Kevin said, more “self-training” on any of the different style connectors helps.

My latest favorites are open barrel connectors. They are for 16 gauge and smaller wire, but look like factory crimps. They also require a special crimper. This connector will also require a heat shrink.
Attachments
IMG_1226.jpeg (30.38 KB, 74 downloads)
Uninsulated crimper
IMG_1227.jpeg (126.69 KB, 70 downloads)
Open barrel connector

Last edited by Phak1; 04/04/2026 1:35 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum