So I jumped pretty quick onto the frame after removing all the S10 parts. I cut all the S10 mounts off and ground everything smooth. I am using the Henry Panza kit for mounting the 49-53 short bed trucks. The burb is different after the 4 cab mounts. But it will not be a problem. The frame even though it was 1998 was not very rusty but after I mounted the Panza kit, I pulled all of them off and sanded and wire brushed the whole frame everywhere that was accessible. The front 2/3 of the frame is boxed so cleaning that inside was impossible, that area inside I used Eastwood rust encapsulator, they have pretty neat 2’ long spray nozzle that makes it pretty easy to coat. I used a borescope camera that hooks to my phone to check out the inside. After a couple of coats I probably have about 95% coverage. I used their same product on the exterior of the frame. Once that was completed I had previously had good experience with Martin Senor chassis black. You can touch up or partial recover an area and cannot see a dividing line. It is discontinued but replaced with an “all purpose” black. Seems like the same paint to me. Once that was completed I put all the Burb mounts back on after painting them with the same black. With the frame done except for the rear end (more later). I am using the 4.3 with a carburetor and decided to not use the fuel pump in the tank. I changed the tank and pickup to use an electric fuel pump and will mount it on the frame. I will redo the fuel line and return later. After changing the fuel tank I had to modify the radiator support using the info in the Henry Panza kit. The Panza kit is pretty nice, he has worked out all the geometry for assembling the parts. All the way to the inner fenders that will need to be notched. No welding required it all bolts on with grade 8 bolts and heavy brackets. More soon!