Since the bores are in a forged arm, I doubt you will find any replacements that fit perfect. The shoulders under the ball and the washer and nut are what hold the ball in the upright position, not the bore. The shaft just needs to fit with out much movement, no tight press fit. If you are worried about the others, trash them and get a second set ream out the arm and drop them in. You could at one time buy the ones you peen into place.
I use the modern type tie-rod ends on my drag link, I never gave it a second thought about how tight or loose the shaft was in the hole. Chevrolet sold these as a replacement for the ball and socket type along with about every aftermarket parts vender in the chassis business. If the nut is tight with a good washer and a flat surface on both sides of the arm, they will work with no issues, mine are going on 20 years now.
My two tie-rod ends are the ball and socket type, with bolt in replacement balls. They both dropped in the holes after I cleaned up the bores with a drill bit or die grinder, nothing fancy or precise, just enough for a drop in fit. Run a file across top and bottom to clean off any burr and tighten them down. They are also 20+ years old now.
I wrote up a tech tip years ago when I replaced mine about lapping the cups to the ball ends. Quality may have improved since then, but back then, the cups did not fit the balls and caused hard steering. I used a drill press to spin the balls and lapping compound in the cups held up to the spinning ball till they fit right. You could tell as you were lapping when the were seated correctly.
I sure don't remember have any need to press them in or have grinding done on them.
Joe
