-- NOTE --
I'm currently (0600, 7 Aug 26)editing this into a real Tech Tip ... In the meantime, I've made it a sticky so I don't have to got search for it again should I lose it. We'll move this to the Tech Tips after a bit so folks will get a chance to see it and comment on it. The videos are intended to be instructional, not cinematic masterpieces. Hopefully ... they get the message across. Sorry if the audio isn't great on your end. It sounds fine here so I wouldn't know how to improve it.There are probably a lot of ways NOT to adjust your Stovebolt's valves correctly. But here's how to do it the Jerry (i.e., the *right*) way.
So whether its that time of year again to adjust the valves or, like me, you had to pull the head anyway (to replace a blown head gasket and replace worn valve guides) so why not do a complete valve job while you're at it so now you have to adjust the valves anyway from scratch... ?
Whatever the reason, here's a series of short videos Jerry and I did yesterday while getting my '49 back together. Jerry will walk you through making sure new valves aren't going to contact the pistons, initial valve setting (so we can run the engine to warm up the valves for a final adjustment, how to use the dial indicator, basics on feeler gauge use and ... most important the companion cylinder valve adjustment method.
See the photo below. You will need it for the last few videos.
Jerry (Hotrod Lincoln) explains:
Video 1 -- Checking for piston-valve clearance with a dial indicatorVideo 2 -- Initial valve adjustmentsVideo 3 -- John demonstrates his incompetence -- note the zip tie .... A lesson in stopping and taking a good look around when something won't work right. The answer is usually right in front of you (literally ..
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Video 4 -- Engine warmup prior to final valve adjustmentVideo 5 -- Basic valve adjusting and feeler gauge useVideo 6 -- Companion Cylinder Valve Adjustment -- Have the training aid below handy for this video.
Hope all of this helps!
