| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
9 members (Samantha, Forty9, texas46, Rustnut, IHPWR, Bill Hanlon, DadsFirstPickup, 32Fordpuchoptop, 1 invisible),
140
guests, and
3
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,108 Posts1,056,236 Members48,437 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,067 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,067 | From the looks of the last picture, the rear of the door needs to come up just a bit to match the reveal lines. That will decrease the gap a bit at the bottom rear. Like hcb3200 mentioned, if it's completely latched, the striker may need to come up just a bit on the B-pillar. That might indicate that the hinges are worn a bit. The door should line up properly with the striker removed, and installing it shouldn't move it up or down when latched.
Moving your post over to the Doors subforum where it'll be more on-topic.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
|
|
| |
