You might be putting the cart before the horse, maybe. Install the drum drum manual master. Use two Wilwood red 10 pound pressure residual valves. Find the brake line junction block to the back of the truck. Disconnect the line to the rear and install a flare plug. Get a roll of 3/16 NiCoop and some fittings, a roll of stainless brake line wrap (both available from Inline Tube). Remove the original line from the master to the front junction block. Run a new NiCopp line to that junction block, make a coil or two near the master, install the stainless wrap to make it look pretty, and install it in the front port of the new dual master. You have isolated the rear from the front.
Run a new NiCopp line from the rear port of the master, a coil or two, following the original lines over to the rear junction block, stainless spring wrap for a professional look. Connect the new line to the original rear line with a flared union. You have now isolated the rear. So, a new Master, two residual valves, a coil of NiCopp, some fittings and some spring wrap. In terms of $$$, pretty inexpensive relatively speaking.
Now, give it a try. If you decide that you want the discs later on, then order the correct master, the proportioning valve and a bracket. Everything else you have, including a loop or two of brake line near the master that you need only uncoil, cut and fit to the proportioning valve. The NiCopp is very easy to work with, bend, fit, flare and install.
On the other hand, if you are wavering, you might consider biting the bullet and just put the disc brakes on. If you do decide to go with disc brakes, consider using some Hawk Street 5.0 pads, for the same reason as the Muscle Car Brakes brake shoes, the over the counter organics disc pads are just OK.
Last edited by Dragsix; 10/20/2025 8:54 PM.
