The pinion retaining nut could be a possibility, but that needs to be torqued till your eyes bug out. I imagine a failed bearing would allow the same thing, but the OP said he had just installed the R&P and I assume would know if the bearing had failed, or had installed a new one. I haven't reviewed the R&P swap instructions, but I believe the front pinion bearing needs to be tight against the forward end of the differential case. I know there's a tool to set pinion depth, but not exactly sure how that adjustment is taken, or if it's associated with the tapered pins and collar.

[on edit] the pinion depth is set by shims in front of the front bearing. The tool sets pinion to bearing clearance (according to the shop manual,) but I can't see where that's really necessary unless the rear roller bearing outer race moves in relationship to the inner race, which should be against a shoulder on the pinion shaft.

Last edited by klhansen; 10/05/2024 7:08 PM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.