I have yet to find an aftermarket kit that is made for a stock truck. I don't have a Chevy column. power windows, AC, etc. I decided to make my own and frankly if you have the schematic it is quite easy. The schematic is in the shop manual and I had it enlarged at Staples and started running the wires from the fuse box forward. I even went against common sense because instead of using color wire I used all black. The longest wire from the fuse box is less than 4 feet. I also went fuse box to the rear using color mainly because I had run out of black. The schematic also shows the wire gauge which is for 6 volt but is more than perfect for 12 volts. I just used the gauge specified.
Now the biggest problem I have is under the dashboard. I cannot access it because of my age and height. When we did wiring at the hangar for Texans and Trojans we had a piece of board 4 feet wide and maybe 12 feet long. The whole harness was laid out on that. I decided to make a harness for under the dash the same way but for now it is stalled.
As to soldering or crimping I use crimping with heat shrink tubing. Works fine and has been for 20+ years. In the Ron Francis catalog there is a section answering all your questions. He does not recommend soldering because of vibration. I suppose its a matter of opinion. In the aforementioned aircraft the wiring used both methods. The Cannon plugs if you are familiar were always soldered.


1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton
"Sedgewick"
In the Gallery
1989 Caprice