Start with king pins, they should turn smooth with some drag, no up and down movement, no side to side movement.
Tie-rod ends, if you want the stock look, take yours apart and check for egg shaped ball ends and grooved ball shanks. The cups tend to cut into the shank of the ball when they ride sideways over the years. Think about going to the sealed type tie-rod ends, they are a drop in replacement. New ball and cup ends are also available if you need to replace them, separate parts are also available.
Draglink ends need the same check as tie-rods, pull apart for a cleaning and inspection. There is a procedure for adjusting them, so get a service manual.
The steering box, its best to remove the whole box from the truck for a proper cleaning, adjusting, and lubricating. Again see the service manual. Use only a grade 00 or 000 grease in steering box. These are self leveling, they turn liquid-like when moving around, yet are thick enough not to leak out, when stopped, they flow back to level. New rebuild kits are available. The '46 gear box is a recirculating ball type, so lots of moving parts.
Leaf springs should be removed, disassembled, cleaned, inspected for cracks, and have the bushings replaced. It's no good to have the steering tight if the springs are moving around. All parts are available from various venders.
King pins can be a fight to get out, some come right out, others require a press, be prepared for both. These will be the biggest of the jobs so start there. I had to get oversized pins as my axle bores were egg shaped, you may or may not need reamers. Cylinder hones, wire brushes, torch set, heavy hammers, and possible press. Pulling the whole axle out helps if you have a way to hold it while working on it. It will be loose anyway if you work on the springs.
This might give you some idea of what's involved, parts are available, just shop around for the best price, they all come form the same place.
