My suggestion would be to remove the drag link, disassemble and clean it well. Inspect the cups that contact the balls...they're made of hardened steel but the balls themselves are made of rather soft steel. Also check out the springs and follow the instructions for re-assembling...I posted the sequence a month or so ago. The cups and springs go in differently on each side. Any egg-shaping can and often will cause some play. The springs are supposed to compensate but it has been my experience that the egg-shaped wear will cause problems in the way the cups mate with the balls. When you go to replace the balls (you get both the pitman arm ball and the control arm ball), please use the ones that are threaded with a nut...not the ones you weld to attach. Why do I say that? So you can loosen and rotate each ball clockwise 90 degrees each 1000 or 2000 miles or whenever you grease the chassis. If you do that they'll never wear egg-shaped again. If you replace both balls and your other parts (cups, springs, etc) are in good nick, you'll have a drag link with no play at all. Good luck! Oh, in case your drag link has the straight grease zerks, jack up the front and turn the wheels left/right to expose those and make it easier to get your grease gun up there. 45 degree zerks are not always easy to find in the size the drag link used.

~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end