| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
8 members (Southerntruck, Jon G, GMCJammer51, 3800GUY, Bill Hanlon, Otto Skorzeny, 2-Ton, 50Chevy3100),
157
guests, and
1
robot. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,102 Posts1,056,185 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,067 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,067 | I have to agree with Otto. Just replace the plug with a proper one. Easy enough to get out by screwing a lag screw in and prying it out with a prybar. The replacement just taps in (after cleaning the hole.)
The JB Weld approach is a bad band-aid fix. Who's to say there isn't another hole ready to rust thru right next to the one that's leaking? Why do the job twice?
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
|
|
| |
