I use a lot of PPG ALK-200 which is a single stage industrial enamel. I like it because it gives me a finish that doesn't look "wet" like base/clear does.
It also has a lot of use properties that I like. I use it for my frames as well as the interiors and body. I believe it's also the paint that the major Chevy parts suppliers sell.
I apply it pretty heavy because I know that I will be sanding it.
I use Trizact 3M Hookit Foam Backing sanding pads. You can get them 1000-5000 grit. They are a little pricey but we'll worth it. They seem to last a long time if kept clean.
The rougher the grit, the faster it cuts , the deeper the scratches, and the harder it is to get the swirls out. I like to start high about 3000 and see where I'm at. Then go higher or lower depends. I usually go to 1000. At 3000, you should have a smooth shiny surface. Each grit is designed to remove the scratches from the previous sanding. Skipping steps doesn't necessarily help.
Remember smooth and shiny surfaces are two different things. A wavy surface can still be shiny. I use a DA to keep it smooth.
As to compounding, its really a paste made up of particles that are too small to be fastened to a pad. All of the polishing companies have systems that either fill the scratches or sand them off. Waxing is basically filling scratches and compounding/sanding is shaving them down. Find out what grit your compound is before using it. After 5000, you might just be going backwards. I like 3M products... I tend to stay with the same company. They have a 3 step system I like. It's called Perfect or something like that....
As to clear coating, your basically just covering your paint with a clear coating which fills in any scratches and then you might need to do your sanding and compounding to that surface. Depending on how well you sprayed it on. One advantage is that your not sanding on your paint color so there is less chance on cutting through to or past the paint layer.
By the way, wet sanding is just a process of lubricating the surface when you sand with really fine grit sandpaper. Compounds already have the lubricant built in. I don't see why you would need to do that if your clear coating....
Mike
Last edited by Rabaut; 05/21/2023 8:45 PM.
