On the topic of steering, here is a tip: if your steering and drag link balls are worn egg-shaped even a little bit (and if they're original they certainly will be), replace them and use the type of balls that are threaded so as to fasten with a nut. Why use these instead of the welded in type? So you can rotate them 90 degrees a couple of times each year. That will prevent them from wearing in the same spots and becoming egg-shaped. Those balls are pretty soft steel and in a few years you'll be glad you did this. Also check the machined cups. They wear out also even though they're harder steel than the balls. I've seen some of these pickups with more than 1/4 inch of slop in the steering and at 60 mph that is exponentially more dangerous than driving around in the neighborhood. Oh, and also...please follow the shop manual when re-assembling your drag link. Once you have all the stuff out to clean/rebuild it, you may not recall the assembly order (which is important). The sequence is: Steering gear end: first goes the spring, followed by the stepped spring cap followed by the two ball seats followed by the end plug. Control arm end (it is DIFFERENT): first the two ball seats followed by the stepped spring cap followed by the spring followed by the end plug. I'd spend the money on the new style tie rod ends. Years ago you could buy the parts to make an adjustable drag link but at least one of those parts hasn't been made in over 10 years. Even if they were available, the original drag link is better. I made one of these adjustable drag links (using all the right parts) and it lasted exactly 3 years before it developed too much wobble and consequently end play in it. When you adjust the drag link, tighten the end plug all the way using a large screwdriver or flat socket bit. Then back off 1 turn plus any amount needed to locate the cotter pin hole. I've even erred on the conservative side and screwed the end plug back in a bit if the cotter pin hole was very close to 1 turn out. I attached a couple of images of used cups to this post. In the one with 3 cups you can see one is ok, the edge of one is worn almost sharp (like the edge of a knife) and one has a cracked edge. One can be re-used, two need replacing. In the second image you see a close up of the two bad ones. Good luck!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
