Got the balancer on! It was soo easy! Thanx Fred T for the advice, don't want to break off a bolt in the crank.
In case anyone is interested, here's how I did it for a 69 c-10 and the materials I used;
Step 1) I had to remove the bumper, grill, disconnected wiring from rad support and removed the rad support.
Step 2) Used a 25/64" drill bit and drilled the end of the crank. I eye-balled it. Using the woodruff key on the side as a guide (up-down) to drill at the right angle. I eye-balled the left-to-right by looking at the crank snout. Actually the hole at the end of the crank kinda guided me in staight also. Let her rip!
Drilled a hole 1 1/4" deep.
Step 3) Took my trusty 7/16-20 tap and threaded inside as far as it would go, again making sure I went in as straight as possible.
Step 4) I couldn't find an installer, so I bought a 4" Grade 8, 7/16-20 bolt. (After going to four hardware stores, the 4" was the longest bolt I could find),The bolt was only threaded 1" at the bottom, so I took it home and added
1 1/2" of thread.
Step 5) Used the 4" bolt with a grade 8 nut and washer (I did not bottom out the 4" bolt in the crank snout.), held the bolt with a box end wrench and used another long box end wrench on the nut and in about 3 minutes had the balancer installed, never had to introduce a hammer.
What amazed me the most is that I never had to apply a lot of force, it slid on easily.
Step 6) Installed a 1" Grade 8, 7/16-20 bolt with a washer and lock washer. The washer laid nice and flat on the balancer and the crank snout. Good to go!
Step 8) Reinstalled rad support, grille and bumper.
I don't want to vender or nation bash, but;
I remember in my youth that I used to use a hammer and a pipe on the balancer to install it and never had problems, but nowadays D*rm*n balancers are made in K*r*a and even using a hammer carefully to tap one in just ruins the balancer.
Dano
