Here we go again beating this subject over and over. Like a flat tire going flop..flop..flop.
Cut and paste from previous posts. See if we can nail the foot of this post so "discussion ad naseum" doesn't continue anymore. Fingers crossed.
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https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/12561/2.htmlMost attempts to revive a vacuum wiper motor with various chemicals work for a time then fails again. Whatever liquid you force into the wiper motor is sucked back into your engine so be careful what you use.
The leather or leather-like material of the paddle that fits the contour of the housing ages and becomes stiff. The material needs to be somewhat flexible and is coated with a type of grease. The paddle must seal well in order to provide maximum torque to move the wipers. There is an art to rebuilding the paddle. The original repair kits are hard to find and many restoration businesses make their own parts. They do not sell kits.
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The wiper motor must have a good paddle seal inside. Leaking vacuum causes reduced torque which causes the wipers to stop moving. It's like worn piston rings in an engine causing blow-by and reduced horsepower.
The weakness of good working vacuum motors is when the engine is under load and not producing enough vacuum. It's really not a fault of the wiper motor but a loss of vacuum. That's why Trico made the Electro-Vac.
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Many moons ago Ficken sold Trico repair kits until they ran low. I suspect they make their own parts now. Here is a copy of the repair instructions.
You apply wheel bearing grease to the paddle.
Injecting brake fluid, anti-freeze, 3-in-1 oil, Marvel Mystery oil, snake oil, coconut oil, pine oil, motor oil, moonshine or LOX simply makes the old bearing grease softer for a time.
Oils eventually dry out and so does grease (not silicon, but...you don't want that sucked back into your engine).
The seal material (leather in some cases) of the paddle can harden or crack.
The smart thing to do is send your wiper motor to Ficken and let them do an overhaul.
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