I have been down this electric fan route and used the sensor that pushes through the radiator fins. I bought the adjustable one. It was a PITA. I could not get the fan to come on at a reasonable temperature both moving and stopped -- one or the other. I was trying to use electric only. My solution was to have the radiator shop solder a bung in the top tank to take a 3/8" pipe fitting. You could also drill the water outlet neck for a 3/8" fitting. That would be cheaper and just as good, I think. Then I went down to the Peterbilt truck dealer and they had a selection of fan switches both normally open and normally closed in various temperatures. I picked a temperature cutoff that was at least 10* above the thermostat temperature. If you pick too low a temperature, the fan won't shut off again while the motor is running or until you go down a hill. So if I remember correctly, the fan comes on at 205* and off at 195* and I can run a 180* t'stat, or something lower, like a 160.

My SPAL pusher fan draws a lot of current so it's powered through a 50A relay wired directly to the battery (with circuit breaker, of course). The ignition switch will not handle that much current. I can tell when the fan comes on because the ammeter swings over to 30A charge and goes back to ~0 when the fan shuts off. Set up this way, it'll come on a couple minutes after you've shut the engine off at a rest area, for example, and stop you from boiling coolant out on the parking lot. There is a thermosiphon action in the cooling system so the coolant will circulate even with the water pump not running.

This is used in conjunction with an 18" six-blade mechanical fan. In hot weather, pulling a hill, loaded, I can watch the temperature gauge climb to about 205 when the electric fan comes on and then stop climbing. Neither mechanical nor electric provides adequate cooling alone. I really would like to use the electric alone for noise reduction but it just isn't adequate on a long pull, say, more than 2 or 3 minutes. There isn't room for a clutching fan in an AD chassis with the 56 and later water pump. At least not in any combination I've found. If anybody knows of one please let me know.


1951 3800 1-ton
"Earning its keep from the get-go"
In the DITY Gallery
1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.