EDITED
I think I have some requests, comments and questions. So we can get this show on the road.
1. Post pic of the crossmember and motor mounts you now are using.
2. How much space between harmonic balance/pulley and the front crossmember.
3. Are you still using the purches with a spacer on top or what? Need some good well lit pics of everything. I see the pics on the other post. What I see is no good. 3 deg down, 7 up? No good.
4. Does this truck have any kind of "drop" or "lift" or non original suspension?
5. Worry about the 700r4 set up later. It's not a big deal and they are a great transmission.
6. Is this a stock differential, if not what is it?
7. I'm curious why you swapped a coil spring control arm front suspension for another coil spring control arm front suspension?
8. It would be very rare to not have to change driveshaft length.

I hope you were not going to mount the trans cross member spaced up on bolts? (your other post).

I think you need to start over with a little help. I advised you way back to mock it up. Not buy parts and lock it up smile
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...rans-swap-in-1965-chevy.html#Post1338162

John, don't do two posts about the same thing. The members on one don't know what the other member are saying. Continuity is lost. Mixed messages. Repeat discussions, etc.
Does everyone know you have dropped this frame? Do we know what frame it is? Just a 73 front clip on a 65 frame? Did however you dropped the rear, rotate the pinion up too much? You may be better off in the Hi Po shop for this truck. Not sure.
For this forum section, a straight motor/trans swap into a stock 1965 Chevy truck is OK.
Anyway let's see if we can reset if you want to.

Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn