Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
I'm actually using 292 rods in a full oil pressure 235 conversion of a 216, using a 235 crankshaft and pistons in the 216 block. I make thrust washers to weld onto the 292 rod caps to center them in the 235 journals and then balance the rod assemblies for equal big end weights. PM me an email address and I'll send you some pictures. It's possible to use stock pistons and 292 rods in a stroker 235 or 261 engine by altering the stroke to fit the rod length and wrist pin height of the 292 rod. Since the 261 uses a wrist pin the same diameter as the 292, you can press fit the pins. On the 216 and 235, put a bushing in the 292 rod and make Teflon wrist pin buttons to center the pins in the cylinders.

I'm designing a stroker 261 using H beam racing rods for a Nissan 2.4 liter 4 cylinder engine that will get close to 300 cubic inches, using the same weld-on thrust washer concept for centering in the rod journal. Those rods are 6.5" long, and the rod journal size will allow a stroke increase out to around 4 5/16".

The best way to increase the compression on a stovebolt engine without buying pistons that make your checkbook need CPR is to cram more cylinder volume into the same head. 30 or so more cubic inches in any engine makes for some very nice compression numbers! With the right bore and stroke combinations, I can put 258 cubic inches into a 216 block, around 270 into a 235, and 300'ish into a 261, all with stock pistons!
Jerry

You have to offset grind the crank, correct? Is that something the average machine shop does on a regular basis?


1951 3100