Originally Posted by Jon G
If you're doing a flange/overlap joint, you can use a common MAAP torch, acid flux and Harris Stay-Brite silver bearing solder and not worry about any warpage, etc. That solder melts at around 430 to 450F and then finishing the work when you're done is easy and quick. Sort of like working lead. Plus that solder is about as strong as a brazed joint. In fact on something like this, you can turn days of work into an hour or so. Good luck.
I can't argue with that, but if you use acid flux, you better use something to neutralize the acid afterward.
Evan (coilover) would probably advocate the use of panelbond.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.