'49 3600 12V Generator 261 SM420
I was installing a radio, key switch and new gas tank and sender. Got the first and the last done, didn't make it to the key switch when the following symptoms popped up (not immediately related to any install):
1. High amperage draw even with the key off. On our crude Ammeter gauges it looks about equivalent to the headlights (high beam) on. So this shows up with the key off and simply having the battery connected. No obvious grounding events (no spark, no heat, no smoke). Leave the (new) battery connected and it will quickly discharge over about 2-3 hours.
2. The amp draw showed up first, and was shortly followed (2-3 starts later) by a dead ignition circuit: no spark at the (ancient) coil or plugs. So I changed the coil, points (my 13 y.o. had left the ignition on overnight), and condenser . Still no electrons at either the coil high tension lead or spark plugs.
3. I disconnected the new radio addition to the key switch, no difference. Then just for fun I disconnected everything from the old (a generic NAPA) key switch. Still no difference on the battery discharge. Something is drawing without the key on.
My first thought was that the ignition circuit from the key switch was grounding in the key switch, but that's not right (since the discharge is still happening with the wires removed from the key switch). Keep in mind that at least twice I was able to start the truck and run it, with the big discharge, before it all died. I have a Bosch RPM gauge that runs off the coil that went dead (showed 0 RPM) two runs before the whole ignition quit.
Starter motor and battery will still crank until the cows come home.
My To-Do list includes eventually adding a new wiring harness, this thing has the typical original, hacked up, crusty harness. So there's no love lost there or anything worth saving. If I wanted to run power to the coil/ignition would that be a simple matter of adding a new wire from the key to the distributor? I'm good with motors but not so much with electrons . . .
