Well, ok...the little shaft collar is in image 4 above and the worm gear is visible in image 5. Also in image 5 you see where the shaft in this one broke. And now for the good news. The shaft coming out from the speedometer is larger than the shaft going through the bushing on the front plate. At 1.6mm the OD of it corresponds with the ID of 3/32" brass tubing sold by K & S and available at any hardware store. And another bit of interesting news is the OD of 3/32" corresponds with the OD of the collar to which the speedometer needle affair fits. Just like New York as we used to say. So get some of that size tubing and cut off about 1/4". Doesn't have to be exact, but you shouldn't need more than that. You can cut this small tubing with a box cutter blade as shown in image 1 below. Use a tiny round file to clean up the cut. Make certain it slides on to the shaft coming out of the speedometer unit. Now using cardstock make a little V to keep safe from shavings and with a Dremel tool, cut off 1/4 or so of the shaft as you see I've done below in image 2. Now cut a piece of the 3/32" OD brass tube to match (or a hair longer than) the length of the collar which protrudes and forms the spot for the needle to mount. And cut a bit of 1/16" tubing (maybe an inch). This will become our shaft in a moment. Carefully solder the 3/32" small piece you cut to the end of this 1/16" tubing, soldering only the end. We don't want it running back to the rear of this piece. In the third image below you can see the piece I've made in comparison to the original (broken) piece. I've done the soldering at this point. Now using a common pin vise and a 1/16" drill bit, open the 1mm hole in the bushing of the front plate carefully. Please do this by hand and don't use a power drill of any sort. Make certain your hole and the OD of the 1/16" brass tubing (which will be your shaft) are compatible. You may have to use a tiny rat-tail file to open the bushing hole just a wee bit. Now slide the part you've made into the front piece and set it in place to determine how much needs to be trimmed off the rear to make it just touch the shaft you cut off with the Dremel tool. Cut this to the proper length and slightly chamfer the end. Now using a pair of diagonal cutters or needle nosed pliers close the shaft of the connector piece you made (the 1/4" long piece) ever so slightly so that the 1/16" brass tube fits sort of tightly in there and slide it on so that it goes 1/2 the way in or so. You can set up everything to be certain all is well as you see I've done in the fourth image below. When you're certain all fits to your satisfaction, and the shaft moves easily when the speedometer rear piece is turned (counterclockwise, of course), then remove carefully and put a small dot of solder to hold the front part of the connector to the shaft you've made. Dress with a small file if needed and then re-assemble the front plate on and apply a small dot of solder to the rear part of the connector. Test the movement of the speedometer again. It should spin freely and move the needle hub nicely. In the fifth image below you can see where I've done that. You also see the odometer wheels have been removed. I'll make new decals for these and refinish them later. The decals you buy from the dealers of pickup parts should not be used, by the way. I'll try to remember to post that work when I get to it. For now, you're all done with your broken speedometer and you have some brass tubing left for other projects.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
