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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,087 Posts1,055,982 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,054 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,054 | Both the brake light switch and dimmer switch contacts are supposed to be isolated from ground, but being down in the splash area, may have gotten corroded inside, which might cause some high resistance contact between the contacts and the grounded switch case. You could remove the wires going to the brake lights or headlights and leave the wire coming from the battery (or headlight switch) and see if the battery still draws down. Or just swap out the switches if you're convinced they're the problem area.
For your original question, the only way the headlights would be dim with the high beam indicator on is if you've swapped the connections at the terminal blocks on the inner fenders. The harness has a splice on the high beam circuit from the dimmer switch that powers the high beam indicator.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
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