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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,087 Posts1,055,977 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | Having had my recent troubles with my weak battery, I started seeing some suggestions about checking the dimmer switch, so I started checking that out. I remembered that I'd recently (being a geezer, recently can mean months to years) changed out that switch. Since I've been wondering if I even had it wired right, I thought maybe I should do some switching around to see if they were right. What I've got is when on dim, the lights do point down toward the road, but the driver's side light seems much brighter when it's on dim. When I hit bright, they are aimed more at the higher level they're suppose to be, but that bright light on dim had me puzzled.
So when this 'battery' trouble started, since I was under the hood, I looked down, saw the switch, and switched the wires to check it. I went back and forth a few times to see if it made any difference. Then I left it alone. It was after the new NAPA battery was failing on me, especially after charging it up all night and then being too dead to turn the truck over the next morning, that I noticed something in the factory manual. And, believe me, I am ashamed to admit this- I hadn't been switching the dimmer wires, I'd been switching the brake switch wires. I'm still shaking my head for not even thinking the dimmer switch wouldn't have been 'way over there' by the pedal linkage, it would be in the corner where it belongs. and it has 3 wires, not 2, and they're screwed on, not pushed in. Anyway...
My question is, could having those stop lamp wires backwards cause a battery load leak? And, how exactly do I now if it's wired correctly. I read in the manual that they are meant to be one way, not either/or. Man, I hate to get on here and ask questions after I've done stupid stuff, but I sure enjoy finding out from you all how to fix my ignorance! Thanks in advance for any thoughts and correct answers to these questions, fellas. Lee
"When I rest, I rust" 1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,002 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,002 | Hey Lee,
I'm going to chime in here, but some AD guys/gals will better help you out. My experience is that brake lights are generally wired the same way.
Battery power>switch terminal #1>switch term #2>brake lights
It makes no difference which terminal; as the brake switch only provides continuity.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help but someone will come along with assistance.
Good luck!
~ Victor 1941 3/4-Ton Pickup (in process). Read about it in the DITY Gallery1955 Grumman Kurbside "Doughboy" 235/3 on tree w/ OD 1957 3100 - moved on 1959 C4500 Short Bus "Magic Bus" - moved on 1959 G3800 1 Ton Dually "Chief" - moved on 1958 C4400 Viking "Thor" ~ moved on to fellow Bolter | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,782 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,782 | Nope- - - -the brake light switch is a simple on/off switch- - - -swapping wires won't make a bit if difference. Did you isolate the power wire to the ammeter like I suggested to see if it affects the battery drain? Nope, I didn't think so! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | Well, I have it off the light switch, anyway. To be honest, Jerry, when I get out there, I tend to forget some of the stuff I'm suppose to be doing. I write the ideas down I get off the forum, forget to write some, then in the excitement of the moment, I start going down rabbit trails and forget what I started doing in the first place. But thank you for clearing up the brake light problem. I could have sworn that I read in the shop manual that one post is for one thing and the other for something else. I will try that though. Thanks.
"When I rest, I rust" 1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,054 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,054 | Both the brake light switch and dimmer switch contacts are supposed to be isolated from ground, but being down in the splash area, may have gotten corroded inside, which might cause some high resistance contact between the contacts and the grounded switch case. You could remove the wires going to the brake lights or headlights and leave the wire coming from the battery (or headlight switch) and see if the battery still draws down. Or just swap out the switches if you're convinced they're the problem area.
For your original question, the only way the headlights would be dim with the high beam indicator on is if you've swapped the connections at the terminal blocks on the inner fenders. The harness has a splice on the high beam circuit from the dimmer switch that powers the high beam indicator.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | Ok, I put in a new light switch, whether it needs it or not, and with the new battery, and a fuel line leak I found while adjusting my valves, I think things are going to be alright. It must have been my old battery all along causing my troubles, although i'm now wondering if the timing is a bit off. I'm not sure what all the shop did when they changed out the timing gears, but there may have been an error there. I just know it's running rougher than it did before the gears stripped.I found a fuel leak at the line leading into the fuel filter housing on the front of the carb. It wasn't leaking steady, and the only way I found it was while pulling the valve cover off to adjust the valves, I lifted up on the hose to pull the cover out and a stream of fuel shot out like a jet onto my exhaust manifold right in front of the hose clamp  . I've been wondering why I've had to pour fuel down the carb to get it started each time I messed with it. Usually that only happens if it hasn't been driven for a week and it's in the middle of the summer heat. Anyway, that's fixed so maybe it will straighten out some other issues, too. I'll report back, but I'm pretty sure the battery drain down was the problem here. Thanks everybody. Lee
"When I rest, I rust" 1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,450 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,450 | Hay Showme wow your 51 looks like a cream puff ! Nice Indian too ! Did you know that those 7 inch headlamps are made so that on dim they shine right on the white line and shoulder, on high beam of course they shine down the road. Kilhansen may be right on reversed wires, A fresh pair of those 7 inch headlamps well adjusted will easily light the way for these trucks ! | | | | | Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,450 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,450 | showme One other detail ,you con put a tail light bulb between your positive cable and the positive post if it lights it shows a drain when you find the leak the bulb will go out. good luck ! | | | | | Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 623 | Thanks for the compliment, fixit! The pics are a little old, but it's a good old truck (when it's acting right). I recently gave it a face lift and shot another coat of what was suppose to be flat black, but it looks a little more like satin black to me. One of these days I'm going to re-do it ground up, but for now, I just try to keep it running well to get that point. And thanks for that tip! Never would have thought of that.
"When I rest, I rust" 1951 3100 5 window w/ '56 235
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