I had never done anything like brake lines before restoring my '50 COE and '37 half ton. I purchased a very well made and pricey flare tool from Fed Hill (fedhillusa.com) and used their copper-nickle brake line material. This brake line will not corrode, is even easier than mild steel line to bend and to flare. I have never had a flare junction leak. NAPA sells this similar brake line made in China that has thinner walls and weighs 40% less. For this reason I don't recommend it although I am not aware of any failures despite this.

As an example of how easy to bend, while working on the line on the rear axle I was contemplating how to make the big looping bend that goes over the differential cover. Finally, I just walked over to one of the massive rear brake drums on my 2 ton COE and with my hands wrapped a section of line around it, forming a nice looking curved piece. It is really easy to work with and will last longer than you will. Like '37 barn find says above I have been told that stainless is difficult to work with because flaring can cause cracks which you aren't aware of until you tighten the brake line nut and the flare junction starts to leak.
Kent

Last edited by Lightholder's Dad; 07/12/2020 3:19 AM. Reason: clarity

1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
1942 Chevy 1/2 ton
1947 Diamond T Model 509
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton
1950 Chevy COE Model 5700 ~ "Barney" ~ And more pix