Thanks Doc, hope it is helpful. One comment...it is just me, but I don't like to get anywhere near some things with Kroil, PB Blaster, WD40 or any other products like these (and there are scads of them out there). They spread (migrate) like crazy...it is after all what they were designed to do...and I've seen too many dashboards, speedometers, gauges, radios, clocks and many other things turn out looking like they'd spent a week inside a popcorn popper not to say something. Even a wee bit can make a mess and some of those products will dissolve paint and others aren't safe to be used on plastic. About 30 years ago I watched a fellow "repair" the sticking tachometer on a pristine Triumph Bonneville. One drop dribbled out and landed on the fuel tank and before he could get his handkerchief out, the pretty original paint was never to be the same. It is why I mentioned chassis grease. The stuff I use (called red & sticky) has a drop point of something over 500 F.
Here is another tip I should have mentioned but forgot: Occasionally the release button just won't let the knob/rod go. This is common when the slider gets completely stuck and it is my opinion when that happens it causes the retaining piece to seize in the slot. Here's a possible fix: Disconnect battery. Pull switch all the way out as if turning on the headlights. Carefully unscrew the retaining nut, pull back on the switch enough to disengage the retaining tab from the dash and rotate the switch 180 degrees. Tap what is normally the bottom of the switch (it will be facing the top now) with the handle of a screwdriver a couple of times. This is to release any broken bakelite pieces keeping the slider from being pushed back in. Please see image below. Now disconnect the wires, marking where each goes and reach around to the top and push the release button. Your rod ought to slide right out.
A friend (via email) asked if there was some way to make a headlight switch last longer. There is...put the headlights on one heavy duty relay and the tail, dash, running lights on another relay. This will keep the high amperage away from the switch and that's what stresses it. If you look at the contactor plate in the 2nd switch I repaired, amperage and use were the two culprits. If that switch had only been switching a typical Bosch type relay it never would have suffered that damage.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
