Originally Posted by bartamos
So all you asked was "how do I make the original one work again?". Then a huge dialog began.
So I will asked the important questions. What is wrong with what? Do you have an electric gauge and an electric sender? Are you saying that the temperature is not reading right? What does the gauge do? Have you tested the gauge or the sender? What is the goal?

For those wondering why convert to 12V as GM did in 1955:
1. No big huge cables required
2. You can buy a 12V battery anywhere.
3. Faster starting
4. You can add accessories, winch, electric wipers, radios......
5. You can by bulbs anywhere
6. You can get a jump start from someone without burning out bulbs and gauges.
7. Automotive is built around 12V systems
8. Testing is built around 12V
9. Aftermarket is built around 12V
10. You can buy a 12V alternator anywhere and cheap. You can't buy a generator or Voltage regulator anywhere and cheap.
11. Brighter headlights and tail lights, no need for relays
12. You can charge your cell phone
13. 6V takes twice the current/amps to get the same watts.
14. May take a special harness to rewire a 6V truck.
15. There is no reason not to convert except to prove something...........I don't know what.
Three words, bartamus.
Chicks dig it.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission