So all you asked was "how do I make the original one work again?". Then a huge dialog began.
So I will asked the important questions. What is wrong with what? Do you have an electric gauge and an electric sender? Are you saying that the temperature is not reading right? What does the gauge do? Have you tested the gauge or the sender? What is the goal?
For those wondering why convert to 12V as GM did in 1955:
1. No big huge cables required
2. You can buy a 12V battery anywhere.
3. Faster starting, especially in cold weather.
4. You can add accessories, winch, electric wipers, radios......
5. You can by bulbs anywhere
6. You can get a jump start from someone without burning out bulbs and gauges.
7. Automotive is built around 12V systems
8. Testing is built around 12V
9. Aftermarket is built around 12V
10. You can buy a 12V alternator anywhere and cheap. You can't buy a generator or Voltage regulator anywhere and cheap.
11. Brighter headlights and tail lights, no need for relays
12. You can charge your cell phone
13. 6V takes twice the current/amps to get the same watts. If you have 50W hi beam headlights, they will draw twice as much current as on a 12V system. I.E. 100W (both headlights) is 100W/6V=16.7 Amps vs 100W/12V= 8.33 Amps. You can run out of amps on 6V. (dimming, etc). Then you start bandaiding with relays, voltage regulator tricks or living with it.
14. May take a special harness to rewire a 6V truck.
15. It's so easy and inexpensive.
16. There is no reason not to convert except to prove something...........I don't know what.
No shade on those who like 6V, just a list for those asking why bother. If you switch, only your hair dresser will know for sure.
