"Ray - the secret to keeping the 2-screw float bowl covers from leaking, is to refrain from putting gasoline in the gas tank wink When the gas tank runs dry, the bowl cover will stop leaking"
Jon,
On my purely amateur level I did find another solution that actually fixed the 2-screw float bowl cover leak long term. I put Permatex flexible anaerobic sealer, item number 51817 on both sides of the gasket. Permatex technical advisers told me that product is highly resistant to gasoline and that claim proved to be correct. I must have read your mind on the more modern carburetor for a '36. While I do have an original '36 carburetor, the one I'm actually using is a '39-'40 Chevy carburetor with a flat throttle arm shaft and '37 jetting, determined by trial and error with various jets and metering rods. My bone stock '36 engine responded to that change with better performance and fuel economy. To the untrained eye it looks like an original '36 carburetor. The 4-screw float bowl cover and angle of the vacuum advance fitting would not fool you for a second.
"As far as screws are concerned; we have virtually every part for every Carter W-1 in stock. Our kits (the minimum sale) are more complete than most, and other parts are available, but with the purchase of a kit."
Regarding the screws with chewed up slots, I've thought of solving that problem by using a "sensitive" (mini) drill chuck in my lathe to drill, tap, and countersink the damaged screw heads and install new fillister head screws for a cosmetic improvement. Red Locktite on the threads would be required to keep the newly installed screws from backing out, leaving the plugs behind, when the time came to remove those tapered bottom screws in the carburetor body.
What do you think of that possible approach Jon?
Thanks!
Ray W
