Evan - I do have a source for the tags (me). I have original Carter blanks, and reverse dies. And before anyone asked, NO, I will NOT make tags for anyone (per advice from my attorney)!
Carl and J. Lucas - thank you for the compliment! Anyone can do the same thing. I think there is an article on my website about carburetor finishes.
Martin - thanks for the tip, but would be something else to learn, and I resemble an old dog
Bow wow!
Ray - the secret to keeping the 2-screw float bowl covers from leaking, is to refrain from putting gasoline in the gas tank
When the gas tank runs dry, the bowl cover will stop leaking. Seriously, the only way that I know is to straighten the bowl covers using heat and pressure about every 3 years. Same issue as that with the Rochester B's, except Carter recognized their issue, and fixed it in 1937. Rochester refused to do anything about their issue. As far as screws are concerned; we have virtually every part for every Carter W-1 in stock. Our kits (the minimum sale) are more complete than most, and other parts are available, but with the purchase of a kit. When we were still restoring carbs, I played the "game" with the manufacturers, and purchased screws in 5000 count minimums. Today, I don't know. You MIGHT find 100 screw lots on Ebay; patience would be your best friend. Or, we can provide, as mentioned.
Back to the 2 screw bowl cover. Personally, if I owned a 1932~1936 Chevrolet that I both drove and showed, I would have two carburetors: (1) the original for show, and (2) a modified 420s (different throttle arm) for daily driving. Another solution for (2) would be the 569s (factory replacement), but a modified 420s runs better on the 1932~1936 engines. Straightening the bowl covers is much easier than boring the tower and pressing in bushings (unless you do a bunch at the same time).
Jon.
