| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,094 Posts1,056,483 Members48,444 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2019 Posts: 122 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2019 Posts: 122 | Thanks for responding Carl. I adjusted the door without the striker plate on. Once I mounted the striker plate, I had to move the door back towards the cowl to shut.
Adjusting the door without the weatherstripping is no bueno for me. I can't see a way to put the weatherstripping on with the door mounted and adjusted. If I adjust the door without the weatherstripping on it would be adjusted in a position that would rip the weatherstripping off when I mounted it.
The hinges are original and there is no play in them. What would be the reason to rebuild them?
I can get the door to shut without taking the weatherstripping off but once I put the striker plate the door doesn't clear the striker plate and the door hits the body at the rear of the door. The truck cab booklet I mentioned above states the same thing as the Factory repair manual.
The striker I have is a reproduction. I will put the calipers on them tomorrow and see if the repro is thicker than the original.
1951 Chevy 3100 1/2 ton (1957 235, 4 speed, 411 rear) | | |
| |
| |