Thanks Doug for a clear explanation of the seals and fix. Your response was terrific. The oil is still leaking despite my tightening the large flange nut.
Thanks Doug of elaborating on my cryptic reference as I was on a 1200 mile road trip.... It is exactly what I meant!
Replacing this bushing was the single most exasperating job in my entire restoration.
The cheap tool is marginal at best, and I destroyed one completely trying to remove my old seized bushing. After a few unsuccessful attempts at making my own tool, I ended up making a small relief cut in the torque tube, lots of heat and penetrant, and a new tool later was finally able to get it out. Welded and finished the torque tube and the new okie bush went right in.
Next time I'll probably follow the shop manual approach, and hammer it out with a long pipe from the diff end.
You are welcome, of course.
I have currently an Okie bushing for my '53 which needs to be installed. The rear axle was overfilled when I go it, and it appears that there is a slight leak at the right rear axle seal. I have the forward torque tube bushing removal tool - which is getting some pretty negative reviews, recently - and will try that before attacking the rear axle assembly for driveshaft removal. My prior experience was with the older dowel-pinned bushings, and removal of the forward bushing wasn't much of an issue. Just hoping I don't need to remove the driveshaft because of the press-fit torque tube bushing in the '53, but if I do, I will evaluate the driveshaft for wear to see if replacing the OE-style bushings and seal would make sense. Once an Okie bushing is installed, they are not easy to remove.
