The discussion is to answer Bluesman's question about unknown coatings on parts he bought. Some are odd looking, not black. I mentioned Ecoat/EDP to him. Epoxy has been mentioned by several of us. This discussion naturally has to include EDP and a suggested primers/methods in order to fill-in the poster. Not meant to confuse.
Many so called experts do epoxy over edp. Many owners say their new parts were edp and then epoxy and then the usual paint job, After many years it's still OK. Painting, and all that goes with it, has a 100 opinions and products. Just saying that roughing the edp and priming with epoxy has history. Epoxy can work over anything. Not known to react. If it's roughed sanded and cleaned, it seals. It's EPOXY!
Eastwood website quote: "Existing Finishes: Epoxy primer is perfect for paint jobs over existing lacquer or enamel finishes. The epoxy primer will create a barrier to keep topcoats from reacting to your old paint. Sand existing finish with 180 - 440 Grit and shoot 2-3 coats of epoxy to seal away the old finish.
"Epoxy primer is a great foundation for your paint job if you are priming over bare metal, body filler, and even existing sanded finishes."
The 1% I mentioned, as a guess, is for possible off shore Micky Mouse "Primer/EDP look-a-like". But epoxy will probably seal that too. IF prepared correctly.
We all agree that bare metal is safe. So DA away if you want to.
EDP is better than any primer for adhesion to bare, if correctly done. New autos are all done with it. It is electrodeposited. Cross between a primer and a plating. Super good. If its real, it does NOT need removed. What we are warning about is that it may not be real. If it's hard to get off with a DA and doesn't flake, it's real.
I have always wanted to ask Bluesman why he didn't ask the vendor, that told him it's OK, what the coating is and from what country. Also tell us where he bought each piece.
