I was able to download and run your vids, it was my PC.
The blowby isn't that bad. I should do a vid of my 216's blowby, it was about triple what I'm seeing in your vids. With use it's decreased to about what I'm seeing in your vid and I've put approx 21K on the engine since I got it running.
You say the engine has sat for 2 yrs. Altho that wouldn't usually be enough time to "freeze" or "stick" the rings in the piston grooves, I've gotten to the point where I try to never say never as theres always exceptions to the rules and I seem to run on to them LOL.
Plugs 5 & 6 look like they have some oil/combustion residue built up. As pointed out try out the recommended plugs.
You need to get/have 3 necessary tools if your going to wrench an old Stovebolt engine, a timing light, a tach/dwell meter and a vacuum gauge. I really like the O scope tho.... I'd really like to get my hands on an old Sun 1020 diagnostic machine....
Your vacuum reading improved when you increased your idle, make sure you're idling between 500-600 rpm with 550 being optimum. Lugging an engine be bad bad bad....
Using your vacuum gauge, adjust the idle/low speed carb adjustment to get max vacuum reading. If rpm increases back it down via the idle speed adjustment. Set it to the point where it just makes max and not beyond as usually this will enrichen the mixture too much. Well worn engines need to run richer, good tight engines will run leaner.
With that done check and set your timing to spec. Usually theres a BB embedded in the flywheel. It's not unusual to run these engines more advanced than the old factory spec so take note before you adjust as you might find it likes the original setting better. Some folks use max vacuum to set the timing but I've found that it usually advances it too much. Another method is to disconnect the vacuum and plug it, using an adjustable timing light set the timing with the engine rpm between 2.5K -3K rpm. At this rpm the mechanical flyweights should be at max advance and then set your timing to the TDC mark with the timing light set to 30-35 degrees advanced. This is probably the best method but you need an adjustable timing light (more $$$'s).
The deciding timing factor is the road test. If it pings loudly under load it's too advanced. If it hessitates on acceleration and lacks power it's retarded too much. A very slight almost can't hear ping under load is optimum.
Some folks successfully use just the road test to set the final timing. YUMV....
In summary, if the engine isn't making any unusual noises, bangs, clangs, etc. Is making good oil pressure and not overheating I'd change to hotter plugs, check/set the carb and timing then run it like that for 500-1000 miles then recheck. With use it could loosen/straighten itself out. These engines like to be run.....
Don't go fixing anything thats not broke LOL.
Dave
