Originally Posted by klhansen
My cab is in the same shape. The first thing I did (it's still on the frame, but am planning on removing it to do the restoration) was to bolt a piece of angle iron between the lower door hinges at the right distance per the weld checking dimensions in the FAM. Using that to jack the cab to the right position will allow you to keep the alignment correct as you weld in new front cab supports and floor. Cross-bracing the door openings would be a good idea as well.
Here's a pic of that brace I put in.
cab brace


Thanks. I checked the FAM and found a couple of great pages that show the dimensions from a multitude of places to other places. It looks like the floor pan should be 1.88 inches above the top of the frame so that will be a great starting point. Doing a quick rough measurement it looks like the floor is pretty much where it should be so it doesn't look like there has been any massive sagging. I will break out the camera and start taking photos as I go to see if I can produce something that is of use to others.

Now that I have the front end off and can see the extent of the damage I will start by ensuring the frame is level and then move (if needed) the body so that it abides by the dimensions in the FAM) and brace it there. I agree with 52carl that doing one side at a time is the way to go to maintain integrity. Luckily the rust is all low down and the door frames seems fine.

I will certainly be cross bracing the doors as well as taking measurements as I go to ensure nothing moves.

Thanks to everyone for the feedback. This is certainly more than I have tackled before but I enjoy a challenge.We will see if I feel that way in 6 months?!!

Last edited by paul65; 03/28/2018 9:18 AM.
1951 3100 5-window
with a '55 235/floor mounted 3-speed
Some of the story in ODSS
Most of it in The Shops Area wink