BigEdPA, I decided to gain the clearance by grinding the caliper instead of the wheel. In the photo album you'll also see I pointed out the amount of material that could be removed from the wheel but I think grinding material off of the caliper is faster than modifying the wheels. I used a hand held grinder and a flapper disk to grind away the material.
Album showing amount of materiel to remove for 6 lug wheels to clear CPP disk caliper. I bought the 1947-1955 kit from CPP and am really happy with it.
CPP six lug disk brake kit. The kit works fine for the 1946. The only difference is that one of the bolts isn't the same size. After discussing the project with my machinist I installed the kit with no modification of the spindle (see the note from the manufacturer), I used a narrower bolt. I installed a dual reservoir master cylinder with no brake booster, i.e. manual disks and stock rear drums. I made a simple master cylinder bracket that mounts the master cylinder in the stock position. I also used a
adjustable proportioning valve. but I'm not sure that's necessary. I also installed a
2 PSI residual valve that is recommended for the front disks when the master cylinder is lower than the wheel cylinders (possible if parked on a steep hill). Again, not sure if it is necessary but I thought it was cheap insurance and it works! I am super happy with the pedal feel and wouldn't even consider doing a power brake version of the conversion. My wife drives the truck often and it is just fine.
Good luck on your project! Let em know if you'd like more info.
David
