I would sure like to know what is on that fuse. Didn't see that answer yet? Please examine and follow the actual wires coming out of the fuse (output side), not what it says it is. What does it feed? Be SURE fuse is good. 100% SURE. Test output side of fuse while in the holder with your test light. If you don't know what side of fuse is input and which is output, take out fuse and test with test light. The clip that is hot is the input side. But I still need to know what fuse and what it feeds!!!! When you take out fuse, is X still hot? Brake lights work? What goes dead?
What fuse panel do you have? A modern one or an original? Was the fuse that blew marked hazard? or what?
Did you check to see if the new fuse blew as soon as installed? If it's good, does it blow when hazard is pulled? Is it the correct amperage? If the old fuse blew because it was old or spiked and you put in a under amp fuse, it will blow. The hazard mode would be 5 bulbs at once.
If you put in the same amp fuse, you did it right.
On your switch the red light flashes in the hazard mode. Green lights flash in turn mode. None are on all the time.
Test:
Do not do this test unless that fuse is not blown. Try one more fuse and watch it blow. If it does, you must STOP and begin a search for a short.
If it's OK, continue as follows:
Take the flasher out of it's socket and leave it out. Test for hot on X socket. If hot, proceed. All lights off. Move turn signal lever to left turn. Make a jumper wire. One end to X socket (that you just tested for hot) and the other end to L socket. Check to see if Front Left and Rear Left bulbs are lit. Turn lever to right turn, check right bulbs. Turn lever to center each time to see bulbs go off. Move the jumper to connect X to P, operate left and right lever and see if green is lit. When you do these jumper tests you MUST ONLY touch for a second in case something is shorted and you must have an observer or a mirror set up to see the front and rear lights or do it at night.
Bottom line:
1. There may be a wire that came loose from a splice, etc. when you were driving.
2. Sometimes a bad bulb can cause this stuff, even a green or red bad bulb (this is a low probability)
3. If park lights come on that tests the front bulbs.
4. If you push on the brakes and the brake lights come on, that should be sufficient for the rear filaments.
5. How many tail lights? How many bulbs in each light? How many filaments in each bulb?
6. Please report how the turn signal switch is wired to the harness. The next steps may include bypassing the turn signal switch so I need to know how it's connected. With a connector that can come apart or what? Should be near column wire exit hole or under dash. Then we can power up, or check continuity of, the various circuits to the lights. We can get them to light and blink, it will identify if the switch is the bad guy or not. This is later depending on all of above results.
