The old ones I can leave in place, the Cab & Chassis 14 bolt the original ones are pretty far back. Or torch most of the old ones off and grind to clean up.

For alignment I'll install the hub and tack weld the bracket at correct spacing.
Then with a dial indicator on the hub check and adjust the flange for runout, using hub to swing the indicator around. Finally weld a little at a time still checking runout and trying to weld here and there to reduce runout.

Another idea to help position the new flanges if the old ones remain is to make 4 spacers or use bolts as jack screws in the old flange to help position and align the new flange.

In a similar method to checking the flange with an indicator I thought to first check the axle tube runout where the flange will be positioned and grind or file to true that best I can, then bore the flange to fit this, might help with radial runout. This step might not really be necessary.

Do you have any other ideas?

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
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"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-