Thanks Chris, I had found and reviewed your pictures earlier.
You're right, the C&C 63" axle will give no trouble with the backing plate flanges, they'll be well back and out of the way.
For what I have in mind I'll keep 8 lug and the bigger and beefier the better, don't want 6 lug. Not sure I quite follow on the difference and advantages of van or truck caliper brackets and such, I do see the different shapes in your parts diagram pictures.
However, are the parts you're using for light truck, what models exactly?
What I have and want to use is from a 2500HD and 3500HD, if that is still "light" at least it's on the heavier end of it.
So we can be sure we're comparing apples and apples what rotor part number are you planning on using?
I considered your Eaton hub idea on the 14 bolt. One downside to me is the increased width, with rotors slid on the outside it'd be about 1-3/4" wider than stock or about 64.75" WMS.
Another complication is I'd want the 9/16" studs, so more machine work. Also the bearings to purchase to make the swap.
Not mentioned yet is the possibility of using the hubs that came on the late model AAM 11.5 axle (or AAM 10.5") that fit the rotors and the rest of the brake parts I want to use.
This won't quite workout because the late model axle spindle is 1/2" shorter than the old 14 bolt. Even if it did swap the WMS would be wider than desired by several inches.
Been looking for any info on other likely late model hubs that would be useful, still 63" axle but larger pilot for the rotor. So far I haven't found even a hint of such a hub.
So, at this point I'm left with the old C&C or dual type hub on the C&C 14 bolt. I would like to mount the rotor on the back side of this held on by the studs same as the drum was originally held on these hubs.
Suppose hub could be machined down so the rotor would slide over it but still there is not a suitable diameter to pilot the rotor. Also results in very slightly wider WMS.
The only real issue thus far in the whole swap is piloting that rotor.
Chris, your comment about about using two flat head screws to center the rotor I suppose with careful machine work is possible, so is drilling and installing dowel pins for same purpose. Originally though those flat head screws did not center the drum, only kept it on the hub, the drum was well centered and piloted by the bore. Relying on those screws to center the rotor means careful machine work would again be necessary with the next set of rotors.
Any more thoughts or ideas?
Am I making too much of a deal about centering the rotors?
If not held in the center (near zero radial runout) won't that cause the wheel, hub, and rotor assembly to be off balance?
Grigg
