Tim - I tend to agree, although a third posibility is the idle mixture screws way too lean. By setting both the idle mixture screws richer than normal, and setting the curb idle sufficiently high to run on the main circuit; we should be able to eliminate some variables.

If the engine will run on the main circuit without choke, we eliminate ignition and pump. If not, then other things need to be addressed prior to again rebuilding the carb.

So, if the engine runs on the main circuit, then the OP can gradually reduce the idle to where it would be on the idle circuit. If the engine will now idle on the idle circuit without choke, the problem was adjustment. Else, the posibility of a vacuum leak, or clogged idle circuit.

Bart - I still don't like the long time to get fuel to the carb, and the pump still may be weak (or a bad lobe on the cam); but since it does eventually get fuel to the carb, and the video appears to show sufficient flow, the whole problem may just be carb adjustment.

Unfortunately, this entire thread has been chasing symptoms, rather than a systematic approach to diagnosis. The age-old rules of engine diagnosis:

(1) Compression check
(2) Ignition test
(3) Carburetion test

Actually, (3) could be divided into 3a (fuel delivery test) and 3b (carburetor). And somewhere in the mix, steady-state vacuum readings would be useful.

Jon.


Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
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The Carburetor Shop