OK lets get our terms matching: The port on the fuel pump from the gas tank is the inlet. The port to the carb is the outlet. The fitting on the carb from the pump is the carb inlet.
Let's cut to the chase here. This is direct but not meant to be disrespectful.
1. Did you get a new pump or not?
2. You said no fuel from pump outlet. Is that still the case?
3. Now that motor starts, let's get back to the fuel pump. There is only ONE way to test without equipment, not a syringe or any other way. Hose from pump inlet into a gas container. NO FILTERS, RIGHT? Disconnect the line at the carb inlet and crank motor and let fuel squirt into a jar with center wire off distributor (so it won't start). See if pump puts out a good healthy pulse and starts to fill jar in 10-15 or more seconds (count them off to yourself to see how long it takes to start pumping). After it looks like it is pumping good...STOP and wait a minute or two. Crank again, it should immediately start squirting same volume.
That is the next step. If you did get a new pump, test it also. Same way. You need to see what a good pump looks like for your career.
4. I understand motor does not run well or stay running. YOU MUST be sure that fuel is getting from the 2 gal container to the carb inlet. Then you can continue with this diagnosis. The pedal has nothing to do with the operation of the fuel pump. The choke has nothing to do with the fuel pump. Forget those items until you report you have a good pump test.
5. Your motor runs OK as far as worrying about timing or electrical, yet. The stalling, choke being closed and pumping pedal are all indications of lack of fuel to combustion chamber. Before talking about the carb we need to know if it is getting good supply of fuel BY TESTING USING THE ABOVE FLOW TEST METHOD. I do not understand if you have done that and what the results are. I don't care about the motor running/stalling/pedal pumping/choke stuff yet. You are close, but no cigar.
Answer all questions and report what happens after test.
FYI: Rebuilding a carb and then let it sit for two years does not mean it does not need rebuilt again. Parts need to be "wetted" and "cycled" to stay viable. Carbs will form nasty Zinc white death deposits and fuel residue deposits after evaporation. (called varnish). So plan on rebuild in the future.
Thanks.
