OK, lets forget your original question, lets forget tracing and lets forget your new harness for now. Lets get the start/run portion wired. This is done with just wires. NOT YOUR HARNESS. Use new wire or extra new harness wires. Using the markings I see on back of ignition switch and marking on solenoid, Install wires as follows:
1. From the center terminal on Ign Sw to "S" on solenoid.
2. From Batt terminal on Ign Sw to your battery pos post. This wire needs a fusible link installed on the battery end. This wire can be crimped to that extra smaller wire on battery cables. This wire is not the battery cable, that is no. 7.
3. From Ign terminal on Ign Sw to ballast resistor (mounted on fire wall)
4. From other side of ballast resistor to coil pos.
5. From "R" on solenoid to coil pos.
6. From coil neg to distributor side terminal.
7. Battery cable from battery pos post to starter big post. (you have a cable there already it seems)
8. You will do the Ign Sw "ACC" terminal later.
9. Wire alternator per internet or whatever instructions you have.
10. NO other wires to these terminals above for now.
11. Wire as above, no fuse box involved, no other way, no PO wires.
12. Use crimp-on ring tongue terminals with shrink sleeving. Route wire neatly and away from exhaust and sharp edges. Tie wrap every 8" and loom. Clamp where necessary. Use proper grommets thru firewall.
13. Use any colors that make you happy. Different colors are nicer to trace than the same colors.
Study tips on Stovebolt or consult the web for proper gauge size to use for these wires.
I would rip out old wires from these places and put in new. If you think you can get this wired per above, with the old wires staying, that's up to you. I would buy a new external resisted coil and a new ballast. I have said this before. Please advise if you are doing that. Let us know when motor starts up.
This way you don't have you ask about any PO or strange wires. If you wire per above and have extra wires somewhere, RIP THEM OUT AND THROW THEM AWAY.
Fusible links sold at O'Reilly's. Buy a size, four sizes smaller than the wire it is protecting. I.E. protecting a 8 AWG...use a 12AWG fusible link.
Bartamos,
Thank you sir for your continued responses, they are much appreciated. I'm confused as to why I'd bypass my brand new harness I just bought to run my own wiring? The whole point of buying the new harness was so I had good wiring that was correct.
All of the old wiring in the entire truck, aside from the 2 wires on the starter solenoid have been removed. A new ballast resistor has been purchased and will be installed once I work out which wires run through it. What would be the benefit of buying a new coil as opposed to the one I currently have installed in the truck? Please understand I'm asking these questions because I don't understand, I am not questioning what you have said.
Thank you again,
Jonny
