[QUOTE]Originally posted by dave64:
Well I didn't flip a coin but I think I've decided to use the waterproof filler on the bare metal, get things close, then epoxy prime, then use a "lightweight filler" for the imperfections.
There seem to be about as many ways of doing this as there are Bolters...but the method you've described is the way I've always done it. It's how I was taught back in 1963 when I took a summer school course in auto body following my sophomore year in high school.
The teacher was a retired auto paint and body man who had been doing body work since the 20s. He taught us to take the surface down to the metal before using any Bondo-type of substance, then smooth it and shape it if needed. Then spray primer and use spot or glazing putty (which at that time was just real thick primer) to fill in any nicks, scratches or minor imperfections.
If a second coat of Bondo was needed after priming, he made us sand it all down again to metal and the first Bondo layer.
I know things have changed a lot since then. Two-stage paints and epoxy primer-sealer hadn't been invented yet. I've only used the epoxy stuff a couple of times, myself. I'm not really familiar with the newest technology in this area. So I always go back to the old ways: bare metal, Bondo, prime, then glazing putty, followed by block sanding and the color coat.
I'm in the middle of a couple of projects where I'm doing this now: my Ugly Truck from the cowl back (I just finished the top and back of the cab) and my 63 Nova, cuz the previous owner's paint and primer decided to peel off the top. So that one's going down to bare metal..and strangely enough, from the cowl back also...since the front end is fiberglass. They're both gonna end up in flat finishes for the moment. The truck is gonna remain satin black and the Nova will get a coat of neutral (beige, sorta) primer-sealer...and possibly a coat of white acrylic enamel, since I don't wanna put a ton of money into its paint.
