Originally Posted by 52Carl
I had a similar problem with mine and bent the accelerator rod so that it passed through the hole in the toe board in a strait line rather than starting high and moving low creating friction

This was exactly the same scenario which was causing my throttle to stick, so I bent the rod a bit and that took care of the problem. Thanks, Carl!

On another note, while I was gathering data for my problem-solving process, I checked out my NAPA FLAPS and found I could order and get a Rebuilt Starter at a really inexpensive price. The core charge was only about $18, so I told the Parts Man, "For that price, I'll eat it!

I put in the Rebuilt Starter and it seems to have a bit more power and the engine seems to start more easily.

The Rebuilt Starter did not have a hole in the Shift Lever for the Return Spring. Instead of dismantling the Drive Housing right off the bat in order to change the Shift Lever, I installed the Rebuilt Starter as is.

I did note, during one test start, that the starter drive did not fully disengage, so I took the Return Spring and wrapped it AROUND the Shift Lever. This seems to adequately pull the Shift Lever back and disengage the Starter Drive once released. I realize this may not be the most prudent tact to take, but if I have any problems, I'll take the Shift Lever off the old Starter and install it on the Rebuilt Starter.

Or, if anybody can see any reason why these two should not continued to be joined together, let him post now or ...whenever!

Now, on to Other Areas requiring Attention.

Thanks again!

Last edited by Davey Do; 05/13/2014 1:20 PM.

Dave
The Blue Funk: a '51 3100 4 OTF with a '57 235
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