A fusible link is a "wire" that melts like a fuse if its current capacity is exceeded. One of the big-blade fuse holders might be a better option, but I don't think a 10 gauge wire will carry 90-100 amps safely. I'd choose about a 6 or 8 gauge wire for that kind of current capacity, and install a horseshoe-shaped stainless steel shunt between the ammeter terminals to keep the ammeter from deflecting too far during heavy charge situations. A piece of a worm-drive radiator hose clamp shaped into a semicircle and drilled to fit the posts on the ammeter makes an excellent shunt. It allows enough current to bypass the ammeter to protect it, while still letting the meter needle deflect to indicate charge and discharge. Dash-mounted ammeters aren't terribly accurate anyway, so as long as the needle deflects in the + or - direction, it's doing its job. The old stovebolt generators only had about a 35 amp capacity, so a 90 amp alternator will peg the ammeter just after startup or if you have to do some extended cranking to clear a flooded condition, etc.
Jerry
Last edited by Hotrod Lincoln; 03/10/2014 5:24 AM.
