The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Has anyone relined wheel cyls ?

I know relining master cyls. and brake calipers has been done for Corvette brakes for more than 20 years now.
Has anyone had this done to rebuild the brake wheel cyls and master cyl.?
I checked with my FLAPS and they were no help with this.
If there's anyone doing this there must not be many out there. Anyone got any experience with this ?
Dan

Dan,

White Post Restorations uses a sleeve in their lifetime warrantied rebuild of brake cylinders. It costs a little $$$ but their reputation is impeccable.

Tim

Good, but I wouldn't say impeccable.
From what I have seen and from several good friends who worked at WP a few years ago the quality of work on the brass sleeved cylinders was not the best, returns and rework were quite common, I haven't heard any updates though, perhaps they now use stainless and do better work???

Personally I would go to:
Mark "the machinist" Frappier
82 Mountianview St.
Agawam, MA 01001
413-789-4588, or 800-528-5235
He does outstanding work at very reasonable prices, often cheaper than you can get a new cylinder. I have never heard of or seen a less than perfect looking and functioning stainless steel sleeved cylinder from him.

The automotive restoration shop I worked for used him exclusively, and I have seen a fair number of cylinders sleeved by him. There were even a few times we had some cars come in with brass sleeved cylinders from WP that needed re-sleeving, Mark had no problems with that, and we ended up with a longer lasting better quality job, for less money I'm sure.

Having seen and experienced both the WP brass sleeved jobs, Mark's nicely stainless sleeved cylinders, and being a machinist myself; I highly recommend Mark's work.

Grigg

Grigg,

Thanks for the correction - I had forgotten brass vs stainless sleeve (you posted this a while ago, I think). Yes, if you are going to spend the bucks, you might as well go for the most reliable method/materials.

Tim

Am I missing something here? The wheel cylinders on my truck don't have any sleeves, you just clean them, hone them and install new rubber and spring and You are good to go, or I should say stop.

I bored and sleeved the cylinders on my C-60. I used bronze when I did it and they have been trouble free. I also bore and sleeve Amal carbs as well for english bikes. There is an ongoing debate between stainless and brass and bronze. There are many different types of each material. I have used some of each and have found if you do a clean and complete job with each they shouldn't be problematic. I run a gunsmithing shop and am a firm believer in the quality of the job sometimes is 50% or 75% the man and %50 to %25 the material. Thats just my 2cts. Good luck either way.

Yes, there are no sleeves in stock cyls. and if the bore is good enough you hone and refit with a rebuild kit.
The problem is to much rust causing pits too large to hone out, and in some cases no new cyls available, as is the case with the rears of my 2ton chevy.

Grigg, thanks for the tip and info on brass vs SS

Any other places offering the service, I guess because I've always liked to compare rather than run to the first place I find.
Dan

The trick for doing a quality job would be to fabricate a holding jig for the cylinder so it can be dial-indicated accurately for the boring job. Once the cylinder is bored oversize accurately, installing and finishing the sleeve is a pretty simple process. Ditto on the skills of the machinist being very important!
Jerry

Glasman,
What year two ton do you have that you can't find rear wheel cylinders? Just curious.

Oh, I keep forgetting that I live in the land of very little rust. I will point out a discovery recently while trying to find wheel cylinders for my 1950 Buick though. even though the FLAPS didn't list them they turned out to be the same ones that came in the mid '60s trucks. I was just lucky that somebody there was buying them and I saw them. See if your FLAPS will let you look through their stock and I bet you can match them up with something.

I was lucky and found new front cyls for my 2-ton, they were from a early 60's truck and the hose ports are canted back a few degrees, otherwise fit perfect. My original ones were pitted beyond repair.
I did have an issue finding the 2" bore with the ports for dual cylenders for the rer end. My PLAPS is great and they are an immense help, but we couldn't find those. I did get rebuild kits and honed them out, but I'd relly like new cycls in there. I'll look into sleeving them for sure.

My real issue is drums. They have a good deal of thickness left in them, but my rears have heat cracks and after my last haul job where I was dealing with 30+ degree inclines, I'd feel a LOT better if I had all new parts.

My truck is a 52 chevy. I'm surprised someone else has a 50 Buick.
I have a 2dr slope back and a 4dr 50 Buick. The 2dr has a 3-spd, the 4dr has the dynaflop trans.
I haven't checked everywhere for those cyls., Carter don't have them,then I thought for longevity getting them lined with SS would be wiser in the long haul because the big problem area is the space between piston seal and the outer dust boot.

Dan

my truck is a 45 1.5ton, 12'flatbed,2spd. rear w/hand shifter... I had the wheel cyls. and master sleeved w/stainless steel.One machine shop was in Quincey/Calif., close to me for shipping. I also got some info from Hemmings, and used a machine shop in Lincoln, Neb. I can't find the invoices, and its been over 10yrs. I use silicone brake fluid, don't have a hydro-vac unit. My truck is a work truck. Just hauled 3yrds/1 1/2-crushed rock for my 4x4 driveway.Haul firewood, 3+crds a load. I just crawled under there and adjusted the brakes...everything still free and easy, adjusters/brake shoes etc...If you check with your local machinists, he might be able to do what you want...